Team Jacquemus

I love everything about Jacquemus spring 2017. It was charming, modern, minimalist, and so tightly edited in terms of presentation. I wanted to find the collection in stores but I swear the shopping situation in San Francisco is so freaking boring that the only recourse is to look online and abroad.
When I finally found one of the wrap tops I wanted online I bought it in my usual size (38, a bit of a gamble since I haven't ever owned a Jacquemus top before) and waited patiently for it to arrive within a few days via Farfetch. The return policy is quite generous but the whole paperwork aspect was something I wasn't looking forward to doing if I had to return it, so I made a mental commitment to love the top in person as much as I do online.
So then it does arrive, and to my surprise the sleeves are quite large. Like, football linebacker large. The fit is totally fine on the waist — since I have actual hips I have to keep the lowest part of the top unzipped, which is fine and fairly typical for designers to forget that women have shapes —  but the sleeves were much bigger than expected given my height. I kind of loved it, but as soon as I wore it out for a mini errand I caught a glimpse of it in a store front reflection and it was a little comical how large they were — they literally overwhelmed my frame.
I immediately raced home and pondered how I could reattach the tags to this thing and sit down and do the paperwork to return it. But alas, that ship sailed in my yank-happy tag ripping moment hours before.
So I took the rest of the afternoon and modified the sleeves myself to reduce the volume and poof, which makes it more manageable (and dare I say more mainstream?). They look just fine now, normal even, but the twisted detail in the front still keeps it avant garde and true to Jacquemus. 
This is a long story seemingly about nothing, but it's mostly for you ladies interested in Jacquemus Spring 2017 anything: just know the proportions are much more drastic in person, unless you're taller. Sizing up is not much help either because things will just be bigger. So proceed with caution, maybe don't go ripping those tags until you feel truly comfortable with the level of linebacker-ness.
 

Brilliant

Jacquemus is without a doubt one of my favorite designers right now.

In a sea of ill-fitting Vetements / New-Balencaiga styled clothes, I'm left wanting something creative. Something more! Jacquemus is about the only show that was memorable, creative, and at times pretty wearable.

Fashion Month: Ugh. I fully expected to be posting more about my favorite collections in NY, but that ship certainly sailed without much of a blip on my radar. Then came London, so I'm like, Hey maybe this will prove inspiring!, Simone Rocha is always such a hit! But actually that turned out to be just marginally better than NY. I think my favorite there was Christopher Kane — more on that later I guess!
Then came Milan, which proved to be a Gucci-run town, where all anyone would or could talk about was the revival of a once super-sexy brand and it's super successful foray into weirdness. Ok, yes, I loved Gucci — the concept of nerd chic felt so much like Marc Jacobs in his heydey,

but after two years of the Gucci as kitschy Wes Anderson vibe I'm asking if Alessandro Michele can do anything else with the brand beyond taking it further and further into the depths of quirky — to the point of unwearable?

Ok Milan. Let's talk about that! There were some other standouts from Milan, which I guess I'll post about at my leisure since I'm not beholden to anyone's schedule.
So finally, Paris came 'round and one of my favorite collections that truly felt creative and fashion-forward came from Jacquemus. To quote Sarah Mower from Vogue;
 

[Jacquemus] is not one of those designers pretending to be underground-edgy or ironic à la Vetements. His talent has an aura of sincere naïveté and idealism, tinged with a slightly melancholic romance.

Boom. Spot on, no?

Super Duper Into Jacquemus

I love how this is such an expected and quirky take on a professional shirt! The bows are charming and the colors are very subdued and expected for a work shirt, which helps with the strange composition. I love how the mismatched sleeve length is just enough of this whole Vetements crazy shit that all the big editors are somehow obsessed with right now — Seriously, hoodies with obsenities and horrible screen prints is not my definition cool right now, and definitely not for the Vetements prices — more on that later.

Wrap Skirts: Socially Acceptable Bath Towels

If you think about it, wrap skirts are just like socially acceptable bath towels. 

Jacquemus skirt (or here) | Gianvito Rossi heels